September 30, 2007
The Boston Globe Nashua spot offers hearty portions with flavorful flair

Tucked between homes and small offices, this new restaurant looks like something out of a tourist handbook, with stonework and framed glass windows. But look above the deep red awnings and you'll see that this building was once a house that, like most in this East Pearl Street neighborhood, was converted into a business and given new life.

Stephen and Karen Williams teamed up with executive chef Constantine Brianas and opened Unums early this month. I would recommend reservations, especially on a weekend night. Upon entering, my husband and I were brought to our table, which was next to the open kitchen. We asked to be moved to a less busy location, and our host gladly sat us closer to the front.

Our waiter Mark was quick with the tall bottle of the city's water. The bottle was left on the table and the top covered with a lemon. A great idea, we were responsible for filling our glasses.

After taking our drink order and bringing some fresh sourdough bread and oil with olives, Mark left us to review the menu, which featured American cuisine with a European/Tuscan flavor.

We started with the halibut and jumbo scallop saute. The fish was served with black truffle gnocchi, braised summer greens, boar bacon threads, sweet caramelized shallots and tarragon mascarpone ($11). When it arrived at our table, the first thing we noticed was the maple-like scent. The fish was sauteed and had a golden color. It was a very hearty appetizer that left our senses happy.

While we waited for our entrees, we enjoyed looking at the decor of rich dark woods with copper accents. I also enjoyed watching the wait staff deliver meals to other tables. What struck me were the hearty portion sizes. And while the music played a little loud, we could still carry on a conversation.

The first entree arrived a few minutes before the second. The stone-roasted sea bass was served over crispy sole, lobster, shrimp, and chopped clam saffron risotto, with a lemon-lime brown sugar glaze ($25). "Wow" was all we could say when this piece of bass, which was easily 2 to 3 inches thick, arrived at our table. It was hot and cooked to perfection, flaky and moist. The entire meal had a lovely buttery flavor to it and reminded us that while white fish is good for you, the running shoes would need to get some wear in the morning.

The second entree, a 20-ounce T-bone steak ($25), arrived buried beneath onion jam and watercress salad, and the french fries were a mattress to the large piece of beef. The entire entree was covered with grated Parmesan and left me wondering where to begin. As I deconstructed my meal, I put the greens on a separate plate, then found my steak. It was cooked medium as ordered, and had a great wood-grilled flavor, and the parmesan gave it a little something special.

With half of the steak gone and a lonely piece of sea bass waiting to go home, we ordered dessert.

Because there was no written dessert menu, Mark was giving us the "411" when I stopped him at the tiramisu ($9).

Unums serves complimentary coffee, and it was very good. But the tiramisu was better. The mascarpone was whipped smooth, and the cake was moist with espresso, but not soggy.

Some say it's best not to visit a restaurant until it has been open for a few months, but in this case, I was glad I didn't wait, and neither should you.

MEG VILLENEUVE
© Copyright 2007 Globe Newspaper Company.